A SMALL TURKEY IN LONDON

Özge Baykan

Döner kebab restaurant”, “home made meze”, “lahmacun machine”, “baklava saloon”…

 

These are only some of the linguistic amalgams for Turkish culinary tastes you can find in Green Lanes in north London, which came to be identified as the heart of the Turkish community in the city.

 

Yet, the diaspora is much more diverse and spread out than it seems. 

 

The growth of the Turkish-speaking population in London shows a unique pattern as opposed to other Western European countries.

 

The first big Turkish immigrant flood to the UK came from Turkish Cyprus during the political turmoil of the 1950s and 60s, and the years following the 1974 military intervention by Turkey.

 

Unlike Germany and France where Turkish countrymen were invited as “guest workers” as early as the 1960s, British encounters with immigration from Turkey have been through Turkish and Kurdish asylum seekers in the 1980s, who fled the 1980 military coup.

 

It is estimated that in London there are currently as many as 300,000 “Turkish-speaking people”, a popular and politically correct term that has come to meld together Turkish Cypriots, Kurds and Turks into a unified community.  

 

“But in fact, Cypriots, Kurds and Turks do not intermingle much,” feels Denizhan Ozer, a Turkish contemporary artist and one of the most well-known figures of the community, who moved to the UK 20 years ago.

 

 Over the years Denizhan observed that “Cypriots tend to integrate more easily, they speak English, and have a good professional life while Turks and Kurds show a more withdrawn and underprivileged profile. These three groups do not necessarily touch each other, nor are they too happy to be classified within the same community, but they seem to have accepted the present classification.”

 

Muharrem Aslan, the board member of RenkArt, a Turkish cultural centre, agrees: “It is exactly like the life in Anatolia. They seem to be together but they are separate.”

 

Demographic Structure

 

As the needs of the Turkish community grew from the 1980s onwards, the service sector has expanded to meet the demands of the Turkish speakers in London.

 

Turks made everything more homely so as not to feel too nostalgic. Almost nothing is left out: goldsmiths, barbers, banks, butchers, greengrocers, solicitor’s offices, restaurants, coffeehouses, associations, mosques, and football teams.

 

The Turkish and Kurdish community predominantly lives in northeast London, in neighbourhoods like Hackney, Haringey, Stoke Newington, Green Lanes and Tottenham.

 

  “It is the ideological stances that connect Turks, Kurds and Cypriots, rather than religion or ethnicity. For example a leftist Turk can get along with a Kurd better then a nationalist does,” thinks Denizhan.  

 

 The coup d’état of 1980 in Turkey meant flight for several resentful Turkish and Kurdish dissidents who faced jail in early 1980s, causing a vast wave of immigrants and asylum seekers in the year 1989.  

 

But the Turkish community is not confined to political and economic immigrants: The UK has become more and more popular among the Turkish youth who come to London to baby-sit, learn English, to work in Turkish companies or for higher education.  

 

 

Economy

 

Originally the Turks and Kurds took up jobs in factories, predominantly textile mills and frequently as illegal workers throughout the 1980s.

 

As many textile mills eventually closed down, the focus of the economic activities moved to the service sector, and the Turkish community members started businesses in hundreds of small shops and restaurants, for which the long array of Turkish signs in Kingsland Road in Hackney constitutes an example.

 

Social Life

Associations, local media and coffeehouses are three major elements in the daily life of the Turkish speaking community.

 

Along with the associations, coffeehouses are places where community members, mostly men, spend long hours chatting, playing board games, drinking tea and reading newspapers.

 

Cypriot, Kurdish and Turkish coffeehouses are separate, coffeehouse frequenters do not intermingle much, says Denizhan Ozer.

 

The local media’s power has grown dramatically in recent years, with several local newspapers and a radio station, “London Turkish Radio”.

 

Turkish speaking intellectuals and artists are still a small minority, but the arts scene is thriving, if a little isolated.

 

Integration and Identity

 

Since the influx of illegal workers and asylum seekers in the 1980s, the community has gone through considerable change in terms of identity and integration.

 

Immigrants, who were confined to poor living conditions in neighbourhoods such as Hackney and Haringey eventually bought houses, mostly on mortgage, formed families and moved to richer neighbourhoods where they could raise their children in a more pleasant environment.

 

“It is difficult to raise children in the UK because of the exposure to things at school that are against our culture, such as drugs. But we stay because in terms of economic conditions we are doing well,” says a restaurant owner in Kingsland Road.

 

In terms of integration, the language barrier remains the biggest issue for the Turkish speaking community.

 

Although the second and third generations have much more integrated into society, conservative cultural practices prevail in many families who refuse to send their children to school or where women suffer from domestic violence.

  

“I remember days when clients attempted to take off their shoes when they entered a solicitor’s office. They were very naďve in that regard,” says Denizhan. “But Turks eventually became accustomed to living in Britain and more or less adapted to the culture over here.”

 

Snowball Magazine, March 2007

 

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©Özge Baykan